Surf Camp Tofino Style
The best surfers are the ones having the most fun.Long Beach Lodge Resort surf pro Kieran O'Connell keeps it low-key and relaxed. In Tofino by way of England where he surfed the south coast of the United Kingdom, Kieran is often mistaken for an Aussie. He attributes this misperception to his choice of profession (surfing and England are not often associated, but then again, neither is surfing and Canada) and his having lived and surfed along the north west coast of Ireland for a period of time.
But from the cold water of the U.K. to the cold water off the west coast of Vancouver Island, Kieran has a passion and a comprehensive understanding of the sport that mesh well with that of Surf Club manager and fellow surf pro Chance McCullough’s. The two have combined their surfing expertise to create what is possibly the first Canada-based “Surf Camp” at Tofino’s Long Beach Lodge Resort and are just now introducing the popular sport to the uninitiated while helping more experienced surfers refine their style and performance.
But no matter the surf camper’s surfing experience, it all starts on shore and in the Resort’s Surf Club. After a light breakfast of fresh fruit, muffins, granola and yoghurt, campers are immersed in the who, what, why, when and how of surfing, and, in particular, understanding waves – the surf environment, how waves are generated, types of waves and how to stay safe.Swimming has been a life skill for generations. In some ways, now is surfing, and understanding the fundamentals of the sport and the natural mechanics and conditions that generate waves and tides. Kieran emphasises that surfing is undertaken in dynamic - sometimes hostile – conditions and the best preparation is through knowledge.
“It is important to have a good understanding of the surf environment,” explains Kieran. “Tide, wind and waves combine to create the surf environment. It is important to understand how each work.”
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After explaining North American and Asian coastal weather patterns, high and low pressure systems, ground swells, wind swells and how the tides are caused by the gravitational forces exerted by the moon, sun, and rotation of the Earth, surf campers are presented scenarios and asked to predict wave types and forms. This cerebral surfing proves to be a challenge as campers consider a variety of factors before offering their final forecast.
The surf environment instruction leads into crucial safety information on rip tides: how to identify, manage and, if caught, survive.
Rip tides and rip currents are strong narrow currents of water that move directly away from the shore. Strongest near the surface, rip tides can occur anywhere there are breaking waves. Caught in a rip tide, a surfer, swimmer or even boater can be quickly exhausted and swept out to sea.
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“Rip tides can be so strong that trying to swim back to shore against the rip tide current will tire you out,” explains Kieran. He suggests swimming in a direction parallel with the shoreline until out of the grip of the rip tide. If on a surf board and unable to escape the rip tide, he suggests sitting on the board and riding it out until the flow dissipates a distance off shore, and then to paddle back in. Kieran offers tips on identifying likely rip tide formations and then to plan surfing and swimming accordingly.
After the surf camp’s educational component, campers suited up in wetsuits in the Surf Club’s superb change room facilities, were assigned surf boards. Equipped with their new knowledge, the surf campers prepared to hit the ocean. Kieran determined that the best waves were on Chesterman Beach - a five-minute drive from the Resort.
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Before entering the surf, Kieran reviewed surfing fundamentals with the campers. Paddling, positioning on the surf board, identifying good waves, catching the wave, standing up and maneuvering.
Then it was time to surf.
After an hour of surfing - during which the all surfers got up - Kieran provided a short on-shore review and critique before another hour of surfing. Surf photographer Marcus Paladino arrived during the final hour and captured some action shots of the surfers.
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The surfers returned to the Resort and after changing, showering and warming up, Kieran provided an overview of the day’s activities in the Surf Club including a review of Marcus’ surf shots. Hot tub and saunas were followed up by lunch in The Great Room and a final goodbye and handing out of camp sweatshirts at 1:00 pm.
Five hours of intensive, comprehensive surf instruction that encompassed so much more than simply riding created a curiosity and enthusiasm for all-things-surf among the campers.
The next morning, after consulting Magic Seaweed (the online resource for everything surf related), considering wind patterns and discussing surf conditions with Surf Club manager Chance McCullough, the campers from the day prior set off for a great day of surfing on their own on Cox Bay. And yes, they were having great fun, they got up and had many great rides thanks to the great instruction and information from the day before.
To learn more baout Long Beach Lodge Resort's Surf Camp, click here.
